Autumn 2002 Newsletter

Many of you know that my favorite season is fall. I would say "autumn", but I don't feel particularly haughty today. For me…it's fall. (Pronounced by many "fawl")

I have begun to despise the heat of summer and it's parching consequences. But fall brings relief. The refreshingly crisp, cool air and…

You can picture it now: a warm, almost touchable, shaft of sunlight that beams down through the branches of the trees in your favorite wood…the golden yellows, toasty, flame-like peach and pumpkin shades, the fiery red and burgundy hues of the tree leaves with a bit of plum colors here and there…and the dark green of the scrappy shrubs and groundcovers that struggle to compete along the path. There is a crunch of crackly brown leaves from seasons past with every step. How many of today's children understand the beauty and silence of such a warm, quiet, tranquil wood on a late September day? Aren't we fortunate?…I love fall.

With this in mind, I'm enjoying the Lilac Wonder Colchicums (Giant Autumn Crocuses) that are lifting their lilac colored heads to bloom from their new pots. This is a bulb that has to be potted or planted immediately to prevent it from blooming in the box. What a terrific addition to any area lacking color this time of year!

In addition, we look forward to receiving our new tree peonies for next year. We are receiving Paeonia delaveyi or Maroon Tree Peony, and Paeonia lutea or Lemon-Yellow Tree Peony. The Maroon Tree Peony has nodding, maroon, 2-3 inch wonderfully fragrant flowers and plants mature at 2-3'. Native to south-central China, it is becoming increasingly rare due to the collection of its roots for medicinal uses.

The Lemon-Yellow Tree Peony grows only to 2', and is distinctive for its lacy, light green foliage. Flowers are an exquisite and fragrant lemon-yellow. Neither of these tree peonies are the more commonly grown suffruticosa species, but they are equally easy to grow and distinctive with smaller, more elegant single blossoms.

If you visit sometime soon, be sure to take a look at our Rhamnella franguloides in the front garden. This unique, adaptable small tree is covered this year superb fruits that began as yellowish-orange, then went through a red phase and finally ripened to a purple-black. Now fully ripened the birds seem to adore the berries of this tree. In Korea, this lovely specimen tree will reach 30', but is likely to remain more the size of a dogwood in our climate.

Happy Gardening,

Karen

From red, to blue to purple…there is nothing like the wispy, lightness of ornamental grasses for adding a new dimension to your garden.

Not every ornamental grass has to be a tremendous clump to anchor the end of the drive. Many grasses offer more compact forms and terrific interest along walls, in mixed plantings and in groupings of three in beds or on slopes.

'Haense Herms' Red Switch Grass is a terrific choice for the subtle red-orange coloration that saturates the foliage in fall. The airy seed heads (flowers) are terrific to cut and use in fresh or dried arrangements. Ht.: 3'-4'.

'Heavy Metal' is also a switch grass, and is a particular favorite of mine for its metallic blue leaves. Flower plumes are airy and light and great for arrangements. Fall color is an amber yellow. Ht.: 3'- 3½'.

'Purple Maiden' Miscanthus on the other hand, sports a fuller plume than the switch grass, and offers a blaze of autumn color. In late summer, the leaves become a dazzling orange-red. This darkens to the deep color of red wine in late autumn. Ht.: 3'-4'.

Ferns for the Shaded Nook      

Ferns are sought after shade plants because of their ease of growth and the lush, prehistoric look of the fronds in the depths of dappled shade. There are several things to consider in your pursuit of the perfect fern, including size, required light and cultural conditions and the color and texture that it will add to the planting area.

Because the crosiers or fiddle heads which emerge to uncoil into fronds in spring are formed in the fall, this is a plant that often does best and is least damaged when planted in fall. The key is to remember to water if, as usual we have dry times in October and November.

Most ferns will accept a wide range of p.h. in the soil, so success is enhanced by working a good deal of organic matter or compost into the intended planting area. While most ferns don't care for exceptionally dry areas, they are not bog plants either, and prefer instead an area with adequate moisture, but with water draining away from the roots. Compost or decayed tree leaves are adequate fertilizers, as many commercial preparations are too strong.

High, dappled shade, or areas that receive morning sun, but afternoon shade are perfect for many ferns. Few will grow in areas of dense shade, and most will suffer in our area if placed in broiling afternnoon sun.

Of course, there are exceptions to every rule. For example, a few ferns will grow well in areas receiving almost constant sun. The key is that they must receive adequate moisture to maintain a healthy appearance.

For most ferns, there are two rounds of growth. The first fronds produced in the spring are the sterile fronds. The fertile fronds, with spore-producing organs arise later in the season. If a frond or fiddlehead is damaged, it is best to cut it off at the base, as it will not recover. Many ferns form leaves in the spring of the year, and do not produce others until the next year.

When cleaning a fern bed in spring, NEVER use a rake. This is likely to damage the fiddleheads. It is best to lift and gently crumble dry leaves. Oak leaves should be removed when possible, as they don't shred very well.

Here are a few Fern Facts to help you choose among the many varieties available.

Autumn Fern (Dryopteris erythrosora ) - Ht.: 18"

Zone: 5-9 Exposure: Light Shade - Shade

Often used as a feature plant because of a lovely bronze-red display of color on the new growth, this evergreen fern is beautiful in front of stones or at the front edge of a shaded area. It will tolerate alternating sunlight and shade throughout the day, but prefers an area that is consistently moist. Great for the woodland setting or the formal Japanese garden.

Christmas Fern (Polystichum acrostichoides ) - Ht.: 24"

Zone: 5 Exposure: Part Shade - Shade

Silvery new growth on the evergreen Christmas fern becomes a rich deep green as the stiff fronds mature. The leaves of this hardy native are often used in cut flower arrangements. It will remain very upright until heavy frost or snow pushes them down during the winter.

Tassel Fern (Polystichum polybelpharum ) - Ht.: 12-24"

Zone: 5 Exposure: Part Shade - Shade

This is a very robust fern that forms an arching vase of stiff, glossy fronds. It offers rosettes of coarse, dark green foliage. A terrific evergreen, tassel fern grows easily in shade with constant moisture.

Lady Fern (Athyrium filix-femina ) - Ht.: 2-3'

Zone: 3-8 Exposure: Part Shade - Shade.

Intricately cut fronds on this graceful, easy to grow fern make it one of the most valued in the woodland or shade garden. Dense clumps with billowing clusters of lacy fronds combine well with hostas, ligularias or cardinal flowers. This fern will spread to fill an area, and fronds will generally stand on their own without support. Tolerates full sun with constantly moist soil.

Japanese Painted Fern(Athyrium nipponicum )-Ht.: 1-2'

Zone: 3-8 Exposure: Part Shade

One of the most colorful options for shade, the silvery gray fronds sport red veins and provide a terrific splash of light among deeper greens or in front of your favorite old tree stump. Dense clumps form along creeping rhizomes and this fern continues to unfold new fiddleheads throughout the entire season. Beautiful mixed with hardy begonias, hostas or other shade lovers.

Deer Fern /Ladder Fern (Blechnum spicant ) - Ht.: 2-3'

Zone: 6-8 Exposure: Light Shade - Shade

This interesting fern is an excellent selection for the cool, moist rock garden with an interesting stepping-stair appearance to each frond. In cooler areas, it is often found in dense patches at the edge of pine forests and woodland clearings. This makes a beautiful showing at the base of a garden sculpture or bird bath, as the spaces between the segmented leaves appear more prominent against a backdrop.

Hay-Scented Fern(Dennstaedtia punctilobula )

Ht.: 18" Zone: 4-7 Exposure: Light Shade - Shade

This exhuberant light green fern is excellent as a groundcover on shaded banks or under trees. It doesn't form a central crown, but instead runs along producing a thick mat of lacy green foliage that smells like fresh-mown hay when crushed. Because it does create such a dense stand of fern, it is best not to plant this with more delicate perennials, as it will overrun them.

Male Fern (Dryopteris filix-mas ) - Ht.: 2-3'

Zone: 3-9 Exposure: Light Shade - Shade

Stiff, lustrous dark green fronds form a flattened vase from the cinnamon-brown crown of this lovely fern.This is an excellent large fern for massing as it slowly spreads by rhizome to form crowns nearby. It is a super choice for wooded, moist areas where some height would be enjoyed.

Cinnamon Fern (Osmunda cinnamomea ) - Ht.: 30-60"

Zone: 3-10 Exposure: Part Shade - Shade

Cinnamon fern is a valuable addition to the shade garden with erect clusters of tawny brown "fiddleheads" emerging from its clustered center from early spring until frost. The "cinnamon sticks" that emerge from the center are actually tightly furled fertile leaves, while the dark green leafs surrounding it are sterile. The sterile leaves will remain upright and leathery green all summer. This plant will tolerate more sun if in a constantly moist site.

Royal Fern (Osmunda regalis var. spectabilis ) - Ht.:3-5'

Zone: 3-10 Exposure: Light Shade - Shade

Distinctive foliage of the tall royal fern resembles the leaves of the honey locust tree. Also called Flowering Fern, the sori (beadlike structures containing spores), are held in clusters at the tips of the fronds, creating the appearance of a bloom. A slow spreader, it will gradually widen around itself in a circle, but each separate plant will continue to display a vase-like form. In moist, almost boggy conditions, this plant can tolerate a full sun.

Using ingredients straight from the garden is the best way to ensure that your dishes will have that "extra something special" each and every time. One of the ingredients that I've been asked about is coriander.

Coriander is the seed that results when your cilantro plants finally bolt. The tiny round seeds resemble black peppercorns in size, but are light brown. They can easily be ground in a pepper mill, which is what I do when making the following easy chicken recipe. Scooped over rice or couscous, this is a terrific dish. I served it at a recent gathering and one of the single young men in the group asked for the "extras" to take home!

1 frying chicken skinned and cut into quarters.

3 Tbsp. lemon juice

1 Tbsp. crushed coriander

1 Tbsp. dried whole oregano

5 cloves minced garlic

1/4 - 1/2 cup chopped green olives

1/2 cup olive oil

1 lime, thinly sliced

Season chicken with salt and pepper and arrange in a baking pan. Sprinkle with spices and pour olive oil over all. Cover with lime slices and bake at 325° until done. (About 1 hour).

One of the priciest of all seasonings, one pound of saffron is derived from more than ¼ million flowers of the fall blooming Crocus sativus. The 3 stamens that arise from the center of this lovely lavender jewel are the source for saffron and they are painstakingly hand-harvested and dried. At home, you might dry the stigmas on a piece of paper and then store them in a tightly sealed glass container.

The bright orange-red stigmas from the flowers were valued by ancient Greeks and Romans for medicinal and culinary purposes, as well as for use in dyes and perfumes. The rich, briny flavor from the harvested "threads" is used by today's chefs to season French bouillabaisse, Spanish paella, and cakes, breads and cookies. It is excellent in dishes with mild cheeses, eggs, rice, fish and shellfish and poultry. Try adding it, also, to dishes that include garlic, onion or shallots.

Plant these small bulbs 3-4" deep and about 6" apart so that they have room to multiply. If you find that you need to move or divide them, do so after the foliage dies back in the summer. This is a superb addition to the herb garden for a bit of fall color and terrific fresh seasoning for your next rice dish!